군포콜걸 군포모텔출장

구리오피걸거제외국인출장샵성남콜걸➹춘천출장가격✉【군포콜걸출장안마『카톡: po03』【goos20.c0m】모텔출장출장여대생Y♩☂2019-01-19-01-00군포↷AIJ➻콜걸출장안마출장최강미녀흥출장안마╊출장안마♫출장샵예약포항┵군포】거제역출장안마╰창원출장샵안내▪인천출장만족보장✲평택콜걸샵

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    군포외국인출장만남출장오피걸
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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    광명오피걸양주역출장안마ⓥ전라남도콜걸샵▧【군포출장연애인급[카톡: po03](goos20.c0m)출장미인아가씨안마Y▣♧2019-01-19-01-00군포▣AIJ✈모텔출장출장연애인급출장오피➳출장오쓰피걸✓출장최강미녀♚군포】정읍출장외국인⊙군산출장외국인┵김제출장소이스☎충청북도출장오피광명출장샵예약포항✉정읍출장소이스╀【군포동출장마사지【카톡: po03】{goos20.c0m}출장만족보장출장안마야한곳Y╣▩2019-01-19-01-00군포╆AIJ┳출장색시미녀언니출장가격미시출장안마㊣출장미인아가씨╟오피걸♮군포】정읍출장샵추천☰전라북도오피걸⇪진주출장만족보장┆경상북도출장샵후기군포출장안마추천진주출장업소│충청남도출장샵강추↚【군포출장미인아가씨{카톡: po03}『goos20.c0m』출장서비스보장역출장안마Y◊◇2019-01-19-01-00군포«AIJ™출장만족보장출장몸매최고콜걸강추⇩출장안마야한곳W출장최고시]군포】영주콜걸샵→남원콜걸☭진해콜걸┫통영출장시부천콜걸익산외국인출장만남ღ고양출장샵예약포항☇【군포출장업계위[카톡: po03](goos20.c0m)출장샵강추콜걸Y☶┯2019-01-19-01-00군포◤AIJ╗출장만족보장출장소이스홍성출장샵추천╬ 콜걸출장안마█출장소이스⇁군포】영천출장업소◙전라남도콜걸♧아산출장미인아가씨♀창원안마

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    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
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    태백출장아가씨▩청주출장외국인♔【군포미시출장안마〖카톡: po03〗《goos20.c0m》출장여대생출장마사지Y✄➚2019-01-19-01-00군포↪AIJ▷출장만족보장출장색시미녀언니콜걸추천⇖출장샵안내⇩콜걸출장안마╬군포】순천출장오쓰피걸⇈논산콜걸업소◄경주출장소이스홍성↺마산안마
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  • 군포콜걸후기여수동출장마사지‿구미출장최고시◘【군포외국인출장만남【카톡: po03】『goos20.c0m』흥출장안마출장서비스Y✦☰2019-01-19-01-00군포♝AIJW출장샵예약포항모텔출장콜걸♣출장샵▒출장샵강추囍군포】강릉역출장안마⇉하남출장최강미녀╥오산출장맛사지╃진해출장샵콜걸군포오피걸
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    남원출장시═보령출장색시미녀언니╄【군포출장샵추천[카톡: po03](goos20.c0m)콜걸추천출장마사지Y╆◆2019-01-19-01-00군포♥AIJ┓콜걸샵미시출장안마콜걸후기▶콜걸강추♚출장안마야한곳◙군포】거제릉콜걸샵↷영천출장안마⊙창원출장색시미녀언니⇩천안출장가격강원도동출장마사지╚화성릉콜걸샵✿【군포출장샵예약포항『카톡: po03』《goos20.c0m》출장샵추천출장샵예약Y.◁2019-01-19-01-00군포✪AIJ⇘출장아가씨콜걸업소오피걸♛콜걸출장안마↕콜걸출장마사지╕군포】전라북도출장안마야한곳➛김천출장샵강추⇛양주출장샵예약포항☢대전출장가격군포출장서비스외국인안마
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